A Beginner's Guide to Gravel Driveway Design

When you are ready to give gravel driveway design a shot, you need to learn the right steps to the process. Unlike traditional driveway design, it's not just about measuring the space of the driveway and pouring in concrete, it's about making sure that you have the right gravel, the right angle for the gravel, and the right traffic counts in mind. Here is a beginner's guide to gravel driveway design so that you can get started today.

The first thing you need to do in gravel driveway design is to figure out what kind of gravel is right for your home. In some cases, this may be determined by city codes that only allow for certain kinds of gravel to be used - you can find out this information from a city inspector. You might also want to think about the kind of gravel you have in other parts of your yard to see if you can match these gravels or at least get similar kinds. Another factor in your gravel choice may also be the weather and the rainfall in your area. If you have a lot of rainfall, you might want to choose a larger gravel size so as to let the water drain into the soil.

In gravel driveway design, it's not just about adding enough gravel to a space, leveling it out and then starting to park on it. You need to realize that while the gravel can help to soak up a lot of moisture, when it snows or when it rains hard, you will need to create a system in which this water can drain away from your home and car. You can do this by angling the driveway from the middle, with the middle being higher than the sides. This creates a natural movement of water to the edges of your driveway and down to the street.

Of course, in gravel driveway design, you might also want to consider the amount of traffic the area is going to get. Since heavier vehicles can easily damage and disturb a gravel surface, you might not want to choose this material in those situations. In addition, if you have a lot of traffic, you might want to think about another driveway building material or you might end up replacing the gravel more often than you'd like.

This article was written by Gregg Hicks of http://www.reliableremodeler.com which provides Internet-based home improvement information and services. Offering homeowners a simple, quick, and free way to access, qualified home improvement remodeling contractors.

Techniques For Framing Partition

The Benefits of Selecting a Modular Home

Can you benefit from buying a modular home instead of one built on site? Indeed! There are many reasons to purchase a modular home.

A modular home can be customized in an affordable manner to create your dream home. A custom designed modular home has a better chance of meeting all your home needs than a cookie cutter typical home does. For instance, perhaps you require two master suites as well as a small guest room and a den. With these criteria, you might not find the home for you, even after extensive searching. A modular home allows you to request custom floor plans for your needs.

Factories produce modular homes in carefully controlled conditions. They are then transported in sections via flatbed trucks to the home site, where they are assembled and attached permanently to the foundation. Modular homes comply with housing and building regulations of their area, and are usually furnished with popular designs or amenities.

Factory built homes can be built more economically and less waste material is created in the process. They often cost much less than an equivalent site-built home. Construction, since it cannot be interrupted by weather or other inclement conditions, will not be significantly delayed.

Since a factory built home is built inside, your new home will not be damaged by rain or other weather elements during the building phase. All those pesky noises from weather soaked wood will be eliminated. Those creaks and pops, by the way, are most apparent at night when you want to sleep!

Modular homes can come in an assortment of styles, including two story and multiple family homes, due to the fact that they are built in sections and put together on your home site. The roof is transported separately from the frame of the house; this allows for many different styles and upgrades. It also has the additional benefit of providing attic room for storage or living.

The proper company to custom design your modular home should be able to handle all elements from permits to the building site. Many customizations, like an attached garage or an exterior finish that matches your neighborhood, are easily achievable by a high end company. When looking for a company, choose one that is focused on customer satisfaction.

Jeremy Rollister purchased a green modular home from All American Modular. With the countless advantages of modular homes california over site-built homes, Jeremy jumped at the chance to build an energy efficient, prefab homes. And, after looking over multiple modular home plans, Jeremy chose one that worked for him.

Not Every Deck is Created Equal

Every homeowner appreciates quality construction and seldom thinks about it on a daily basis, unless the homeowner experiences sub standard quality every day in their own residence. What about the landscaping and decking outside the home? Just like the home interior, every deck should be able to be enjoyed all year round and can be provided that it has been well designed and expertly crafted. How does a homeowner determine quality when deciding to add a new deck or sun room to the home?

Unless the homeowner is in the residential construction business themselves, they are very likely unaware of the differing qualities of construction techniques, materials, and designs used in deck construction today. It is not as simple as assembling a platform and laying planks across the top over a weekend or two. Building codes need to be adhered to and inspections need to take place just like the home needed before it was able to be enjoyed by the owner. One must take into consideration the type of drainage the ground beneath has, type of weather the new construction will need to endure, and how much weight the new deck will need to support.

The best way to receive this quality craftsmanship and design is to examine past projects of the decking companies which are being considered for the job. If meticulous work has been taken in the actual design of the deck, then the homeowner can expect and should receive outstanding construction results. Looking through past projects in the companies portfolio is a good sound start, but questions need to be asked.

Some basic questions that should be asked are "What type of woods or synthetic boards are available for the construction of my new deck?" and "What types of fasteners are used or recommended in the assembly of my new deck?" From here the questions should be "Why?" Even though the prospective company will be designing and building the new deck, they should "want" to educate the customer regarding every aspect of their project and include them in every aspect of the decking adventure. If that desire to include and teach the customer about their new deck is not present, then a different company may want to be sought out. The final question a customer should ask is "What do I need to do in order to maintain my new deck?" There are just a few materials that require almost no maintenance at all unlike traditional woods. By maintaining the deck a customer can be assured of years of future outdoor enjoyment and entertaining barbecues.

The only word of caution to be aware of is if the price sounds too good to be true, it will be. Even the simplest design has detailed elements under the surface that require a great deal of time and planning not openly apparent to the customer. These elements are taken into account by the decking company when they provide the price estimate. When a deck design starts to incorporate detailed moldings, angles, and levels the price can climb to surprising heights. What the homeowner dreams and envisions may not be a realistic achievement. This is why it is important to discuss budgetary constraints early on so as not to waste your time as well as the decking company's time. This will ensure a minimum of stress and allow both parties to enjoy the whole project.

For more information and guidance about decks, sun rooms, room additions, and more, visit http://www.paradisedecking.com . Paradise Decking specializes in high quality, upscale decks, porches, sun rooms, and room additions, and the pictures in their gallery can provide you with fantastic ideas for your own home.

Daniel Elliott is an independent contractor who authors articles and media on a variety of topics for diverse audiences. WebDrafter.com, Inc. (http://www.webdrafter.com) produces Website design, hosting, and search engine marketing services for many of the clients, industries and markets related to the articles and media authored by Dan Elliott. If you would like Dan Elliott to ghost write or pen an article for you or your company, please contact him with your specifications.

How to Remove Pet Stains

You can find all kinds of products that will help you to remove nearly all types of stains. The perfect solution in completely removing stains is by cleaning the spills and dirt the second they appear.

There are a number of ways to clean up stains by using products in your home which you use frequently, such as detergents, rubbing alcohol, vinegar, lemon juice, etc. You just need to know how to use these regular household products.

Your first option is to use 1 teaspoon of clear, household type ammonia and a half cup of cold water. You can apply this solution to the carpet directly or use it in a spray bottle. It is crucial not to wet the carpets backing when you use the solution. Once you have applied the solution, you can use paper towels to blot; allow it to dry from top to bottom.

Your second option is to use detergent solution made of dish soap or hand soap. The ideal combination is one quart of water and one quarter of a teaspoon detergent. You need to make sure the soap does not contain lanolin or bleach.

Your third option is to use water. It will re-hydrate the stain to help with removal. The majority of pet stains can be cleaned up by using a steam cleaner. Once you are done, be sure to dry the area as completely as possible.

Ink stains

1. Buy isopropyl rubbing alcohol.

2. Apply it by pouring some onto a clean white towel or cloth. You can use paper towels if they are white.

3. Blot the stain as much as possible until it is cleaned.

4. Be careful, because if the stain is small, you should blot in one direction only so you do not spread the stain.

Beer and wine stains

1. Mix a solution with 1 part water and 1 part white vinegar.

2. Apply the mixture to the stain. You can use a spray bottle to saturate.

3. Allow the stain to sit around 10 to 15 minutes.

4. Use a sponge and clean in a rubbing motion.

5. Rinse the area with warm water.

6. Brush the carpet pile back into the natural direction it has.

7. Use layers of white paper towels; place them on top of the area; put something heavy on the paper towels. Wait until the area has dried.

Protect your carpet against paint drips, snow, mud, dirt, stains, and heavy traffic conditions. Read about plastic carpet protections as well as temporary carpet protections.

Room Additions Are a Blessing!

In today's ever changing economic scenario one has to compromise so many desires like having a dream house. But don't worry at all the solution is here and it is "Room Additions". Now, what does a room addition mean?

Room Addition means creating new rooms within our house by making few logical and structural changes which not only expand your space but also give it a new feel. Room additions require addition along with creativity. In some cases we need more accommodating rooms and in others we need to modify the size by making it a great room. All is done using framing diagrams. Now opting for new room space means remodeling your kitchen and bathroom also because these areas are given the first preference in design patterns. It can be said that these are the areas from which other rooms get a room space too and all these factors make your house elegant, user friendly more livable and comfortable place as a paradise. Room additions can have varied benefits like split entry issues, adding a fake basement, growing a small bedroom to master bedroom, adding value to any room through new interiors creating a recreation room or a kid's den or a guest room and the list goes on and on.

With room additions, the advantage is that you can recreate the whole scenario of your house with a new methodology which will be cost saving , re-changeable in design and tailored according to your needs. Apart from that you can preview them using the simulation techniques i.e. have a virtual view of them through the appointed architects and designers. Type of materialistic and structural changes required depends on the desired stucco quality, vinyl finishings, brick material opted, wood type- oak, cherries, hard wood, pine cedar, maple etc. Depending upon the location, wall furnishings and material used, some classifications of rooms are patio rooms, sun rooms, garden rooms, gabled rooms. The added benefits which make room additions a success and prominent are weather guards, fine vinyl usage in furniture to protect them from moisture, tempered glass windows with screens, glamorous lights, wooden flooring.

You can find many room addition service agencies offering all this with new introduced tiles, granites and woods with thousands of patterns, styles, colors and sizes. These are experts in modulation for kitchens, rooms, bathrooms, backyards, garages, office space etc. Various requirements for basement conversions, reinforcing ceiling joists for a second story conversion, handling attic conversions or the requirements of footings, foundations etc. is handled with utmost care and responsibility.

So why not go for the San Diego Room Additions whenever you need an extra room or an altogether new look of your house because we see your dreams as ours.

Home Improvement Books

The other day, I was surfing the Internet and came upon an online home building bookstore that put together a website with the best-selling home building books on the market today. These books range from basic carpentry to advanced structural engineering and everything else you could possibly think of that could be related to the home building, selling, remodeling and construction process.

I couldn't believe the simple and easy to use. Here's a list of some of their books selections.

Photo Guide to Home Repair - The most up-to-date, complete, and useful guide to home repair a homeowner can have. With more than 350 projects and 2300 photos, virtually every home repair challenge.

Exterior Siding, Trim & Finishes - This first ever compilation by Fine Homebuilding on the popular subject provides builders with ideas for choosing the correct finishes for home exteriors, plus solid how-to information.

Flipping Houses - This book is designed for realty investors who want to profit from buying below market, making cosmetic improvements to add value, and then quickly reselling.

Bathroom Remodeling - Remodeling a bathroom is a challenge - it's action-oriented and requires extra energy and stamina. But you, undoubtedly, realize it's a challenge you want to take on.

One $20 home building books or home repairs book, can save you lots of money, if you're willing to do a little research and the labor to complete almost any home building project.

By the way, if you're interested in learning how to repair a roof, build your own house, interior decorating, structural engineering, building a deck, gathering some more information about home painting or even remodeling your bathroom. Our online home building bookstore can save you money if you're willing to do the work.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He has just finished a Home Buyers Guide to take some of the frustration out of home shopping.

If your looking for some more House Remodeling Pictures or home building ideas.

House Lighting Books

Nailing Or Screwing Drywall - House Building Tips

Nails versus screws who will become the winner. When drywall first came out the installers used everything from regular steel nails to galvanized roofing nails. After a short amount of time they started to develop major problems from nails popping out of the finished drywall.

Nail popping results when the nail is driven into moist lumber and as the lumber shrinks the house settles and nail can actually pop out to the walls. Hard to imagine the nail could actually pop out of the drywall as the wood was drying out.

How far the nail would actually pop out was determined by how far it was driven in to the framing studs or ceiling joists. Well pretty soon drywall installers started to use ring shank nails to eliminate this problem. This worked great but these nails were hard to drive in and would often break.

As time went on the nails improved and were made out of galvanized metal with cupped shaped heads and came in a few different sizes. The size of the nail used was determined by the thickness of the drywall. These new nails worked great and had good holding power and eliminated a lot of nail popping.

Using nails means driving them in with a hammer. If you miss the nail you damage the drywall. This seemed to be a big problem and was virtually eliminated with the screws.

Well pretty soon people started using screws which had greater holding power and pretty much nail popping. Another advantage to using screws over nails is the simple fact you need less screws than you do nails to attach the drywall to the metal or wood framing.

This means less labor installing and finishing the drywall.

There is one problem with the screws and that is they have to be set perfectly. They can not break the paper surface on the drywall but have to be set enough into the drywall so that it can be finished properly. Most screw guns have an adjustable setting used to get just the right depth for the screws installed in the drywall. But this also was a problem when screwing into a hard piece of wood you can actually snapped the screw head off, strip the screw head or break the screw.

Nails on the other hand can bend while driving them into a hard surface.

Who wins the nails versus screws while installing drywall? I have got to give it to the screws. That doesn't mean the nails just got screwed or the screws just got nailed.

I couldn't resist. I actually preferred the screws over the nails except for when nailing the drywall corner bead on. Some drywall professionals use nails to hang the drywall and go back with a screw gun and some screws to finish the job. The nails sometimes seem handier than the screws when installing the drywall.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes and Carlsbad Home Improvement

Parts to Repair Your Electric Kilns

Many people do not have a great deal of skill when it comes to repair work. The United States has become a "throw away" society. The meaning is simple; it is cheaper to throw a DVD player away then to have a broken one repaired. There are some special people out there, though. Some of them work in their own art and pottery studios. They know how to repair the tools necessary for their trade. These special people realize they can live an artist's lifestyle of little money because they have the ability to repair the many items in their shop or studio.

A necessary tool in a pottery studio is a kiln. There are a few unique individuals who have kilns that are heated by burning wood. Most artist depend on electric kilns. Either way a wood burning kiln or electric kiln will need to have brick. The kiln brick holds and radiates the heat of a kiln around the ceramic pieces inside. Artists who are able to identify damaged bricks should be able to replace them with little difficulty.

Replacing a controller on a kiln is a little more difficult. The kiln controllers manufactured today are high tech pieces of equipment. They are made to fit and work on a kiln so the kiln is able to reach and hold exact temperatures. These controllers are computerized devices; thus, replacing a controller needs to be done with care. The artist who replaces his or her kiln's controller should have some electronic and computer skill.

The electronic skill that is useful when replacing a controlling unit of a kiln can also be helpful when elements are replaced. The kiln elements directly power the kiln. Because these are electric pieces of the kiln, and artist who works on his or her own kiln should have some someone who has experience with electric heating elements looking over his or her work after the work is completed.

The American Art Clay Company has many experienced employees. They have been working with artists and schools for over eighty-seven years. For the artist looking to do repairs and replacing parts on his or her electric kilns AMACO is the place to contact. The kiln controllers they sell are the controllers a good artist needs. AMACO knows to offer their customers controllers that will accurately fire a kiln each time. Kiln elements must be fit into a kiln with precision. AMACO is an Indiana based corporation that is the right place to look for the do-it-yourself person who is also an artist.

Filling In Outside Bay Window

Eliminate Shower Leaks

INSTALLING A COMPOSITE SHOWER PAN IS FAST AND EASY. Before discussing the simple steps to install a composite shower pan, I felt that some clarification and definitions are necessary because not all shower pans are alike.

WHAT IS IN A NAME? A roof is a roof, although there are many different roofing systems and roofing materials. Not true with shower pans. They are often interchangeably called a shower pan, shower pan liner, shower pan membrane liner, waterproof barrier, shower base, shower tray, or shower receptor. Yet, each has a different meaning depending on context and each are available in a variety of materials.

Bob Vilas web site defines a SHOWER PAN as The base, containing a water drain, of the shower enclosure. And a SHOWER RECEPTOR as A one-piece base (floor) unit used as a shower, for example, to catch water and direct it to a center drain.

For the sake of clarity, I offer the following definitions.

SHOWER PAN & SHOWER BASE A finished area that is capable of retaining and directing water to the drain plus it doesnt require tiling once installed. The shower pan or base has a drain hole, sloped floor to properly direct water to the drain hole, sidewalls, and a threshold (entrance to the shower that forms a curb to keep water from running out onto the bathroom floor). A shower pan is synonymous with a shower base.

SHOWER PAN LINER, MEMBRANE LINER, & WATERPROOF BARRIER A barrier, usually a plastic sheet or membrane, that is intended to trap water that penetrates the shower floor tile, grout, and mortar under the tile and force the water to flow to the drain. As long as it doesnt leak, it prevents water from reaching the sub-floor and surrounding wall enclosure. The liner is a component within a constructed shower pan. A shower pan liner is synonymous with a shower pan membrane liner and a waterproof barrier.

SHOWER TRAY & SHOWER RECEPTOR A shower tray is synonymous with a shower receptor. Both are used in place of a liner. They serve the same function as the liner, but are pre-formed to eliminate some of the installation steps necessary when using a liner.

Shower pan liners, shower trays, and shower receptors are all used in conjunction with the construction of a shower pan that has a tiled floor as well as a tiled wall enclosure.

Commercially available shower pans are complete, ready-to-install units. They eliminate the need to create a mud sloped floor, a shower liner or tray, and tiling of the shower floor.

COMPOSITE SHOWER PANS. As composite shower pans are made from a number of different materials and constructed differently. I wanted to touch on each of the most common types. Composite shower pans fall into several material groups; cultured marble, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface. Generally all are made by fabrication of flat sheets, thermal-formed from a single piece of material, or molded or cast to form a one piece unit. The one-piece construction eliminates seams, which in turn eliminates potential leaks. Each has their pluses and minuses. Because beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I will not comment on appearance. All composite shower pans install on a flat, level floor and do not require the creation of a sloped mud base. Also, the cast or molded pans generally do not require the use of a plastic membrane.

Cultured marble and dressier versions, like cultured onyx and granite, tend to be the least costly. Cultured marble is made by spraying a gel-coat onto a mold. This coating is about 1/64 or less in thickness. The gel-coat is covered with pigmentation and then backed with calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate gives the finished part its strength. Also, in the casting process it is infused with air pockets to lower its density and weight.

The cultured marble floor is cast separately from the sidewalls. Thus, the incorporation of a shower pan liner is essential to insure a watertight, leak free installation. Although widely used, the down side of cultured marble is that other than the gel-coat layer, the calcium carbonate is highly porous. Any crack or scratch through the gel-coat will allow water penetration. Other gel-coat characteristics include; yellowing, even without UV exposure; clouding from hot tap water; staining; crazing (fine hairline cracks); and it is not reparable when cracked or chipped.

Fiberglass is widely used as well. Fiberglass is strong, light weight and inexpensive. Many fiberglass manufacturers make one-piece shower pans and enclosures and one-piece combination tubs and showers with the wall enclosures. Similar to cultured marble, fiberglass is made with a gel-coat, then backed with pigment and chopped strands of fiberglass in a resin mixture. Generally the finished product is about 1/8 to 1/4 in thickness. The underside of the shower pan floor has webbing added to provide support to the floor. As the floor is not solid, the unsupported space between the webbing can flex. This flexing is especially noticeable with heavy loading or where one is standing between to the webbing. Over time, the flexing can cause material fatigue and cracking. Once a crack develops, the pan has failed.

Acrylic sheets are used to vacuum form shower pans, bathtubs, spas and many other items. The vacuum forming process begins with a 1/4 sheet of pigmented acrylic that is heated to a temperature that makes the acrylic ductile. The sheet is placed on a mold and stretched over the form to create the finished shape. The heating and stretching of the sheet causes a reduction in wall thickness. The reduction is directly proportional to the amount of stretching that occurs. With shower pans there is far less material reduction than with creating a tub or spa. The heating, stretching, and cooling of the material could also introduce stresses to the finished pan.

Like fiberglass pans, acrylic pans need support elements under the pan floor. A commonly used support element is polyurethane foam. The foam fills the void and eliminated the flexing of the pan floor. Acrylic sheet material is susceptible to crazing, minute surface cracking, and cracking when cleaned with many common cleaning chemicals. Should crazing occur, over time these cracks can lead to a pan failure.

Acrylic sheets have very different physical and chemical properties than acrylic solid surface materials. In addition to the acrylic resin used in solid surface, the solid surface material receives additional physical and chemical characteristics from the addition of alumina-tri-hydrate, or ATH. The ATH causes cleaners that adversely affect acrylic to have no affect on solid surface.

Solid surface shower pans are the top-of-the-line in physical and chemical characteristics as well as performance, reparability and a myriad of other features and benefits. The primary features of solid surface are it is non-porous, will not support the growth of mold, mildew, or bacteria, is available in a large variety of looks (some like natural granite) and colors, and is 100% repairable should chipping, scratching, or even cracking occur. Health departments throughout the country have approved solid surface materials for use in hospitals and food preparation areas for its resistance to bacterial growth, ease of cleaning and maintenance, and resistance to staining and contamination.

Some solid surface shower pan manufacturers fabricate their pans from sheet goods in a similar fashion as the acrylic shower pans. That is, they thermal form the pan floors by heating and stretching the material and then bond sidewalls and a threshold to the floor.

The Royal Stone brand of solid surface shower pans are the pans that I manufacture and will use to illustrate the simplicity and ease of installation that can be had when installing a composite shower pan. Unlike fabricated solid surface shower pans, the Royal Stone shower pans are a cast one-piece solid surface product. By casting the pan as a one-piece unit, there are no stresses introduced in the pan, and there are many other features engineered and designed into this pan.

The most obvious features are the large radius transition between the pan floor and its sidewalls. Secondly, the flange (also called a weep edge) is 1-1/2 tall. I have seen pans that do not incorporate an integral flange or have flanges 1/2 to 1 tall. The added height is designed to minimize, if not eliminate, any water being drawn up behind the wall surround panels that could cause water damage to the shower sub-structure.

Royal Stones pans have a minimum wall thickness of 1/2 and the webbing elements have a wide foot with large stress relieving radius corners between the pan floor and the webbing. All shower pans are engineered to support the weight of 3/4 thick (2 cm) granite slabs as well as all other commonly used wall materials like tile, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface panels. Finally, regardless of floor loading, the Royal Stone pan floor is so solid that it feels like one is standing on a rigid concrete floor. There is no perceptible flexing or oil-canning of the pan floor. Thus, there is no possibility of floor fatigue and cracking over time and the potential for pan failure is eliminated.

INSTALLATION IS FAST AND EASY. As I have already stated, composite pans install on a flat sub-floor. The following installation information may not apply to all types of composite shower pans. Specifically, I have direct knowledge of installing the cast one-piece solid surface shower pans that Royal Stone manufactures. Thus, the following directly applies to Royal Stones standard and custom shower pans. The same steps should also apply to other types of composite pans and other materials, however, follow the manufacturers recommended installation instructions.

As a manufacturer, I do not install pans. The photos included within this article were provided by a local installer. They were supplemented by photos of a different pan, for clarity of the installation process. Thus the different pan color and shape. Further, most of the photos were from a unique plumbing situation. The home had all of the plumbing above ground. Thus, a particleboard platform was built above the plumbing for the shower. The following installation information applies to concrete, plywood, particleboard, wood, etc. sub-floors at, above, or below grade.

Step #1 SUB-FLOOR PREPARATION: Using the template provided with the shower pan, place template on the floor and verify that the drain is in the correct location. If the drain is NOT properly located, relocate the drain. NOTE: Relocating the drain is usually far less expensive than having a custom pan cast to accommodate your existing drain location.

The hole in the sub-floor needs to be larger than the drain pipe. About a 6 round or square hole (about the size of a coffee can) is recommended. This larger opening allows room for the drain assembly that extends below the bottom of the pan. Most drain pipes are 2 PVC. The PVC pipe allows for some flexing within the 6 opening in the sub-floor. This flexing is desired and makes the pan installation easier. The PVC pipe should extend above the finished sub-floor by a minimum of 1/2 to about 3 to 4.

The sub-floor can be wood, plywood, concrete or any other rigid or well supported surface. The sub-floor must be level and free from debris. To assure a level floor, check the floor with a long level as shown in Fig. 1. The longer the level, the more likely that the sub-floor will be level at its greatest dimensions. Check front to back at the left and right sides and at the center. Do the same from side to side. Finally, check the diagonals. Fig. 2 indicates the location of the 8 readings that should be taken.

Depending on the results of the level measurements, some additional prep may be necessary. If the sub-floor is relatively flat, shims may be used to make the shower pan level. If the floor is uneven and out of level, pouring self leveling thin-set material may be necessary.

Once the sub-floor is level and the opening for the drain is correct, the setting of the shower pan is next.

Step #2 ATTACH DRAIN ASSEMBLY TO PAN: A standard 2 part Brass Drain Assembly is recommended, as shown in Fig. 3. This type of assembly should be readily available at any plumbing supply store or home improvement store. Royal Stone also sells this drain assembly. Disassemble the drain assembly. Keeping the components in order makes reassembly faster and easier.

Place the pan on saw horses or any raised platform that allows access to the top and bottom of the pan. Spray the drain opening with rubbing alcohol, Fig. 4. With a clean rag, wipe the surface and interior edge of the pre-cut drain opening, to remove any dust or other contaminants from the pans drain area. Around the drain opening apply a generous bead of 100% silicone, Fig. 5.

Insert Brass Drain Body, Part #5 of the Brass Drain Assembly into the drain hole, Fig. 6, and press firmly into place, Fig. 7.

Step #3 REMOVE EXCESS SILICONE: Remove the excess silicone from the Drain Body, Part #5. Spray an alcohol mist over the drain area and the silicone, Fig. 8. With a Dap-Cap, scoop away the excess silicone, Fig. 9. This step may have to be repeated several times to completely remove the silicone. Last, spray a mist of alcohol and wipe remaining film away from the Drain Body, Part #5, with a soft cloth.

Step #4 MOUNT DRAIN LOCKING RING: Attach the Drain Strainer, Part #1, to assure that the Drain Body, Part #5, is centered within the drain hole, Fig. 10. From the bottom side of the shower pan, attach Parts #6, 7, & 8 to Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #8 until snug. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Over tightening may crack the shower pan. Remove the Drain Strainer, Part #1, and set aside.

If any additional silicone has been squeezed out from between the shower pan drain and the Drain Body, Part #5, repeat Step #3 until all excess silicone has been removed.

HANDLING TIP: Using a set of glazers grips allows for easier handling and moving the pan into the proper location. If these are not available, brute force also works.

Step #5 DRY FIT THE SHOWER PAN: Lower the shower pan into place. Make sure that about 1/8 space exists between the shower pan flange and the studs. With the level, confirm that the pan is sitting flat on the floor as shown in Fig. 11 & 12. If additional shimming is required, lift pan and place shimming material where required. Lower the pan into place and check for level. Repeat until the pan is level.

CAUTION: When leaning and handling the shower pan, handle carefully to prevent damage to the shower pans flange.


A LEVEL PAN IS ESSENTIAL FOR PROPER DRAINAGE.

Step #6 SILICONE THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN: Lift pan and lean against one of the studded walls. Apply 100% silicone caulking to the webbing, Fig. 13, on the underside of the shower pan . Also, apply a thick silicone ring around the drain opening in the sub-floor, Fig. 14. If shims were used, silicone all shims into position on sub floor as required.

Step #7 SET SHOWER PAN: Lower shower pan into place. Check the pan for level. Press down as necessary to re-level the shower pan. Apply a silicone bead along the front edge of the threshold to seal the threshold of the pan to the sub-floor.

Step #8 CONNECT DRAIN PIPE TO DRAIN ASSEMBLY: Inject silicone completely around and between the drain pipe and the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, as shown in Fig. 15. Place the Rubber Gasket, Part #4 of the Drain Assembly, over the PVC pipe and slide down until the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is completely seated and is below the top of the Drain Assemble, Fig. 16. Screw the Locking Ring, Part #3 of the Drain Assembly onto the Drain Body, Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #3, with the Tightening Tool, Part #2 until the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is seated and tightly in place.

Step #9 TRIMMING THE PVC: The top of the PVC drain pipe MUST NOT extend above the Brass Drain Body, Part #5. If it is at the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, or extends above the top, trim the PVC so that it is about 1/4 lower than the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5 but is taller than the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4. Cut the PVC pipe with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

If the Tightening Tool, Part #2 has not already been removed, remove it and press the Drain Strainer, Part #1, into place. The installation is complete. Excluding any sub-floor preparation, the installation should take about one hour or less.

Step #10 CURING: Let the shower pan set for 24 to 48 hours to allow the silicone to properly cure. Once cured, the wallboard and wall panels can be installed.

CAUTION: When attaching solid surface shower pans and wall panels, ONLY use 100% SILICONE. Other adhesives or caulks may harden. The loss of the elastic bond between the solid surface and other materials can cause stresses in the solid surface. In turn, these stresses may cause fractures of the part and void the manufacturers warranty.

Milton Lemberg is President and Marketing & Sales Manager of Royal Stone Industries. He holds a degree in mechanical engineering and is the engineer and designer of the shower pans Royal Stone offers. Any questions should be directed to Mr. Lemberg at milt@royalstoneind.com or to Royal Stone Industries, Inc., 2949 N. 31st Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85017. For further information on Royal Stones 22 standard shower pans, custom shaped shower pans, wall surround kits and accessories, and 48 standard colors, visit Royal stones web site at http://royalstoneind.com/products_Shower.asp

Stairway Safety - Stair Construction Tips

If you've built as many stairways as I have, this is a very simple question to answer. Should I use 2 x 12 or 3 x 12 for my stair treads? Without a doubt I would use the 3 x 12 for a couple of reasons.

The thickness of the three by material gives it some additional strength and that strength could prevent someone from falling through the stairway and getting injured. Visually looking at the 3 x 12 it gives you the illusion that the stairway is safe. Once you start walking up the stairway and the stairs seem solid and well constructed, it takes the illusion and makes it a reality.

If you're walking up a poorly constructed stairway every day, not only is it a safety problem but it takes a little bit of effort as you walk up the stairway, holding on to the hand rail with a death grip, this can easily wear someone out physically and mentally, over time. Stairways should be constructed and maintained with safety as the main priority.

If you've ever walked up and older stairway that was built using 2 x 12 for the stair treads, you probably know what I'm talking about. Walking up and down the stairway, while the stair treads are moving, does not give you a strong sense that the stairway is safe. And of course sometimes the stairway isn't.

For example if you have a 3 inch knot in a 2 x 12 stair tread, over time as the wood expands and contracts, the knot can loosen up and fall out of the stair tread, often creating a weak spot in the step. With a thicker stair tread, it will take a little more expanding and contracting to create a weak spot in the stair step.

If you're building a stairway wider than 36 inches, with no center stair stringers to support the stairway, I would suggest using a 3 x 12 or 4 x 12 for your stair treads. 2 x 12 should not be used for stair treads on any staircase wider than 36 inches.

If you choose to use 2 x 12 for your stair treads, select premium grade lumber for safety. Try to avoid using center cut building materials and 2 x 12 with knots larger than an inch and a half. Large knots are one of the biggest problems in construction safety.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He has just finished a home buyers guide to take some of the frustration out of home shopping.

Learn more about the parts of the stairway, whether you're a experienced carpenter or homeowner. Stair building does not necessarily have to be as complicated as most people make it out to be. There's also a book on how to build straight stairs that can save you a lot of frustration, if you've never built a stairway before. Visit the website.

Insurance and Your Claim - Will They Pay

You've poured over your policy wondering, "Will my insurance company pay for repairs?" Insurance policies are complicated and filled with jargon that's often difficult for the policyholder to understand. Even if you understood what the terms used actually mean, policies are also loaded with exceptions and exclusions. By the time you've read the policy from cover to cover, you're left with the same question - will they pay for it?

To further complicate matters, even if a loss is covered, the policy most likely includes a deductible as well as coverage limits. Depending on the nature of the loss, multiple insurance companies may be involved. For example, if a storm strikes and you have both wind and flood damage, you may have to file a claim with your homeowners insurance for the wind damage and another with the national flood insurance program (if you have flood insurance) for the water damage.

Depending on where you live, your deductible may be higher under certain circumstances. For example, in Florida, your deductible for hurricane damage is much higher than if your home was burglarized.

So, will your insurance company pay or won't they? Look at it this way, insurance companies DON'T want to pay. They are in business to generate profits and will need to be convinced BY YOU that the claim should be paid. The burden of proof lies on you, the homeowner. This means that you will need to prove your case and do it well. The better prepared and more organized you are, the better.

Start with documentation. You may need to take dozens of photos and provide your insurance agent with detailed estimates to counter against the insurance company's original settlement offer. You may need to demand to see how the agent depreciated your property and negotiate a more reasonable method. While your homeowner's insurance policy is a contract, the claims process does provide room for negotiations.

Your best bet is to be prepared for a fight. Your tools in this battle include a detailed home inventory, digital photos and video documenting the damage, estimates from local contractors, and a willingness to demand a better offer. You don't have to do this alone. In fact, many contractors are willing to be present during the insurance adjuster's visit to help point out damage that the adjuster might have otherwise ignored. In addition, public insurance adjusters act as advocates for the homeowner and work on your behalf to negotiate a higher settlement offer.

Arm yourself with knowledge, documentation, and real-world estimates while also considering professional representation and you'll be better equipped to answer the question, "Will they pay for it?"

Mr. Mark Decherd
http://www.dryout.net
1415 Colonial Blvd.
Fort Myers, Fl. 33907
1-800-330-1504
Water Damage

How to Hire the Right Home Improvement Contractor

New York was dubbed the "City that Never Sleeps" for a good reason and that is the 24-hour hustle and bustle not only of traffic but people as well. Home improvement is an area which is increasingly gaining importance in NYC living. A very busy lifestyle, calls for a living space that would be worth coming home to no matter the size or type of residence. There may also be damages and functionality issues lurking somewhere and are only brought to the attention of the busy occupant when the damage is beyond repair. There is no doubt that in times when the need for maintenance, repair, renovation, and remodeling arises; the most ideal option for any New York City person is to get help from a home improvement contractor, but how do you hire the right one?

Good word of mouth is the best form of advertisement for every business operator and service provider, as well as the most damaging. Try to ask family members, friends, and neighbors for any recommendation. These people would be the best source for honest testimonials on the work of an NYC home improvement contractor. Be wary of names that come up when asking at some building materials store or at a local pool supply as these leads could just be among those that benefit from a finder's fee scheme.

If you have nobody trustworthy to consult to regarding this search, check with the BBB or Better Business Bureau in New York first before spending minutes and hours going through the local Yellow Pages. While at it, see the list of home improvement contractors that have bad records or unresolved complaints to their names and make sure to steer clear from them. The Internet can also be a good source of information that could lead you to the right NYC home improvement contractor. You can browse through rip-off websites or simply Google the name of the professional that you are interested in, and you are sure to find either good or bad things about him. From here, you could already draw up possible candidates who have clean records.

After going through the steps, now is high time to screen them to determine the right home improvement contractor to hire. Phone each of your picks and tell them exactly the same details and get bids. When conducting the interview, never hesitate to ask many questions especially important ones. Do not base your choice on the price given by the contractor as the cheapest is not always the most economical and the most expensive does not always end up with the highest of quality. When comparing bids, consider what the contractor plans to do and the materials that he will be using. Make sure to get references to check out and verify his license.

There are numerous benefits in acquiring the services of a New York City home improvement contractor, so much more if you did your homework and hired a competent one. The time extended on going through the selection and the dollars spent would prove to be well worth it not only after the project has been finished successfully but in the long run. Hiring the right home improvement contractor for the job helps you avoid the risks of additional costs for maintenance and back jobs.

Eugene Makeev has been in the home improvement industry for a while. His skills and expertise, which have been polished through time, are now used to help New York home owners avoid the common pitfalls in home improvements by matching their needs with the right, prescreened New York General Contractor. To know more, visit New York Remodeling.

Bathroom Remodeling Donts

Injection Waterproofing - Home Repair Tips

Injection waterproofing is often used to fill and seal cracks and crevices. The material is most often made from a polyurethane compound. The compound is lightweight and expands up to twice its original size when applied to a surface. Many non-toxic and environmentally safe products are available at home improvement stores nationwide. Injection waterproofing is used mainly in foundation crack repairs.

In most foundation cracks, a polyurethane injection can seal the opening. In some smaller cracks it may be apparent that a sealant was used because it may be difficult to evenly inject the compound. Single caulking style cartridges and the dual side-by-side cartridge systems are the types of injection waterproofing compounds available for retail purchase. Both of these are manually injected and easy to pump.

When using an injection waterproofing method, it is important to keep the area dry. Temporarily block any flowing water to the area, and clean and dry the area as needed. Experts say that in the case of water flowing through a hole, you can temporarily caulk the hole with candle wax, modeling clay or plumbers putty. If the cracks are in narrow or hard-to-reach places, you can use a flexible hose attached to the injector nozzle.

Whatever waterproofing system your leakage problem requires, be sure to do your research. If you choose to make this a do-it-yourself project, make sure you know where your leaks are coming from and the proper method to repair them. When purchasing waterproofing materials you should make sure you are buying the appropriate product for your needs. The National Association of Waterproofing and Structural Repair Contractors (NAWSRC) has tons of information on waterproofing. Whether or not you decide to hire a contractor, this organization can help you from beginning to end.

Waterproofing Info provides detailed information on waterproofing systems, including injection waterproofing, foundation waterproofing, concrete waterproofing, deck waterproofing, basement waterproofing, and waterproofing basement walls, as well as waterproofing contractors and consultants. Waterproofing Info is affiliated with Business Plans by Growthink.

Damaged Wood Window

Having a Healthy Contractor Business

Budgeting is one of the biggest pains in the neck in any business including the contractor business. But, any good successful long term contractor knows it is absolutely necessary for success. The mentioning of budgeting can make just about anyone's teeth hurt. This is especially the case with any contractor who loves his or her business because it is all about making something from your skills. Who wants to be sitting with a pencil, paper and calculator figuring out numbers? You want to be out there constructing something. Well, you can get to it right after you figure out your budget!

There are really two budgets you need to have as a contractor. Well, there are more than two but let's use the two major ones as an example. There is the yearly budget where you figure out how much it will cost to stay in business, how much you can generate in sales and how much you want to make in profit. Then there is the project by project budget which has to fit into their yearly budget at certain intervals. Each one has to be done with care with the numbers being as accurate as possible. This is important because too many times people fudge their budgets and then wonder later on why their business failed. Don't fall into that trap.

Anyone in the contractor business needs to be realistic in figuring out there yearly and project by project budgets. There is no sense in lying to yourself, be honest about what you feel you can and cannot do. A reasonable and conservative budget can always be adjusted later on if things go right. But, a sloppy and over optimistic budget can cause some serious financial damage to your company. Every contractor wants to succeed but it is the ones with an obtainable really budget that get ahead. And, in this economy that it is ever more important to have a budget and live by it.

So, yeah it stinks to have to come up with a budget but it is one of the single most important things you can do for your contractor business and you will be happy you did at the end of the year and at the end of each project. Being on budget or ahead of budget feels great! Going the other way can really bring you down, literally. So do your homework and make a budget that works.

Josh Macmichael

http://www.contractorblab.com
http://www.contractorblabblog.com

Mold From Dryer Vent On Joist

Using Table Lamps

Table lamps are interesting home accessories. They light up your home nicely, and look good too. These days, there are plenty of ways to light up your house, but table lamps remain among the most popular picks.

Table lamps come in useful if you are a night owl, but you can use them just to decorate a room as well. True to the name, they look best on tables. From their humble origins, table lamps have come a long way. Some come with a range of fixtures, which are usually decorative, but may be functional as well. These lights are built strongly, and you can adjust the position to create the light effects you want.

Table lamps are obviously designed to be placed on table tops. The commonest use for these lamps is reading. But people have devised ways to use them as artifacts and home dcor items. Today, you will find table lamps in a vast range of sizes and shapes, from the ultra modern sleek styles to the more conventional ones with fabric shades. Some table lamps come in metal, glass or even wood.

Choosing a great table lamp is not that easy. The design is important, but you also need to take other factors into account. Measurements are crucial. The lamp should not be the height such that it casts a shadow on your reading matter when you sit next to it. The size should be in harmony with the rest of your furniture. The same goes for the color.

So-called modern table lamps include the light chrome lamps, crystal chandelier lamps and simple glassy types. These are each ideal for different types of home dcor. Select a color that you are comfortable using- there is really no point going in for the sexy oranges or bright reds if they don't match your tastes. You could go for a softer red instead, or rust, or a subtle pink. These are trendy too! In fact, modern table lamps are truly affordable, and you can go for a new one every couple of years, and create a new look for your home. However, there are designer pieces, collector items that are really high priced.

It may sound surprising, but some cheap table lamps have a LED touch mechanism that changes color every time you click a button. There are lovely bouquet shaped lamps with each floret concealing a candle bulb. There are lamps in animal shapes and pure retro lava lamps. When you are out shopping for one, we bet you'll be spoiled for choice.

Table lamps are generally fitted on short stands and covered with designer lampshades. You get stands in wood, wrought iron, glass, cane, bamboo and for the more adventurous, metal. The lampshades may be made up of silk, glass, cloth or paper. Each piece is decorated innovatively, with glass pieces, miniature painting, beads, shells, appliqu work, embroidery or sequins and the like.

Ready to give a touch of elegance to your home? It's time for you to pick up an exquisite table lamp that would make a positive difference to your home dcor.

Lauren Tyler is the owner of LampLightWorld.com, an online home lighting store that sells beautiful Tiffany style lighting pieces such as table lamps and pendant lighting.

Problems Walking on an Old Roof

Here's some things to think about before walking on the roof of a house. If you slip and fall off the roof you could get hurt seriously. For your own safety if you have no experience walking on a roof use extreme caution. I would even suggest using a ladder and moving the latter around the perimeter of the house if you are inspecting the roof for damage.

Here's some things to keep in mind before walking on a house roof.

1. If the building is above two stories hire a contractor especially if you think the roof has building damage.

2. If the roof is too steep stay off. This could be extremely hazardous to your health.

3. If the roof is severely damaged and has loose shingles or tiles, this could create a safety hazard as you slip on one of these loose shingles and possibly fall off the roof.

4. You should stay off the roof at all costs if there is snow or ice. Ice obviously is extremely slippery and would be difficult to walk on. The difficulty would be increased if the roof has a steep slope.

5. Now last but not least if the roof is wet you should avoid walking on it until it is dry. I have been on wet roofs before and personally slipped myself losing my balance but not falling off of the roof.

Climbing up on a roof and walking around is not child's play and should be left to an experienced professional . If you feel comfortable walking around on any roof please use caution. If you slip in the middle of the roof there is a good chance you will be able to regain your balance or have time to stop yourself before falling off.

I would suggest using caution near the edges of the roof. If the roof is too steep or you don't feel comfortable, why risk serious injury. Use common sense along with the proper ladders to ensure your safety and "Think before walking on a house roof."

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

45 Degree Door Header

What are some problems painting metal siding

Painting metal and aluminum siding can become a nightmare if not done right. Over the years I have worked on and repaired many homes with metal siding. Metal siding is real common in mobile homes. Most older mobile homes use aluminum paneling for their exterior siding.

Most painted metal siding seems to last at least 20 years. The reason for this is the paint is baked on in a factory giving it a high quality and nice looking surface. This baked on method is used for painting aluminum and most metals siding that gives the product a long life.

I lived in a mobile home park for a few years and my next door neighbor's mobile home had never been painted and was over 45 years old. He would go out and washed the mobile home once a year with some TSP soap while using a brush on the end of an extension pole to clean the home.

His mobile home might not have looked brand new but it was definitely in great shape. Over the years he had developed a few scratches and some dirt that was hard to wash off but that was about the extent of the damage to the painted metal siding.

Well we painted our mobile home and used an expensive metal primer along with some expensive paint from Dunn Edwards & Co... This paint worked great. We lived there for around four years and never had any problems once the home was painted. Having been in the construction business I knew we had to use a good metal paint primer in order for the paint to stick to the baked on paint process for the metal siding to look good.

Here's my advice to you when painting metal siding.

1. Make sure the metal siding is clean. Use TSP soap along with a scrub brush and scrub that baby clean. The cleaner the metal surface the better the new paint primer will stick or adhere to the old paint.
2. Follow the instructions carefully on the paint primer can when applying the primer. Do not paint below or above the recommended paint temperatures.
3. Make sure you explain to the paint salesman at whatever store you're in that you are going to be painting metal siding. Get the right paint primer.
4. I would love to recommend a paint primer but cannot because I don't want to get a phone call from anyone a few years from now telling me the paint is peeling off of their home. Let that responsibility become the paint manufacturers.
5. Let the paint primer dry for the recommended time as per the directions on the paint primer can. I prefer letting the paint dry at least one week. The reason for this is some paint primer's stay soft for a while and if you paint over them immediately they doesn't seem to bond as good and sometimes will stay soft for a long period of time.
6. Apply your final coats of paint following the manufacturer's instructions on the paint can.

There you have it painting metal siding is all in the preparation of the surface you are painting.

Have fun painting and always read and follow the manufacturer's recommended instructions for the products you are using. These people test their products constantly and know the best way to apply them to any surface.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on different Types Of House Siding

Comp Roof Clay Tile Hips
Landscaping Books

Copper Chimney Caps Are an Aesthetically Pleasing Addition to Chimneys

Not only is a copper top a useful feature for homes and buildings in any climate, it is also a distinctive and beautiful adornment for any roofline. The beauty of copper is obvious regardless of how it is taken care of and care and look are actually based on the personal preference of the property owner or resident. Some homeowners and property owners love the look that a shiny copper chimney cap has to offer. On the other hand some people prefer the natural look of copper as an aesthetically pleasing addition to their roof and chimney.

Natural copper chimney caps do not require any maintenance to maintain their appearance. On the other hand, shiny copper, unlike natural, requires a great deal of maintenance. It needs frequently cleaning and shining to retain its glory, otherwise the copper patina into a green color that some people may not enjoy.

There are several benefits to copper chimney tops. Some of these benefits include keeping unwanted items and creatures out of a chimney, preventing water damage and lessening a chimney draft. In fact, a copper cap is often the least expensive way to fix and prevent problems in a chimney.

A copper cap has many uses because a chimney itself is a multi-functional item. One of the most popular reasons that chimneys are used in a home or building is as an accessory for a heating device, like a fireplace, a palette stove or a wood stove. The smoke from these heat sources escapes out of the chimney and keeps the house or commercial building clean and smoke free.

A copper chimney top works well when installed by a professional. While these caps are best when installed by a professional; they can be installed by a homeowner with the right precautions, especially if the homeowner is experienced or knowledgeable in the area of roofs and chimney care.

There are a few things that should happen prior to purchasing a copper chimney cap it is imperative that a chimney is measured properly and the flues are accurately counted. These measurements and counts are essential in obtaining the correct chimney cap for a specific chimney. The wrong measurements can result in the inappropriate size of a chimney cap. The wrong size will result in a poor functioning cap or top.

The measuring and description process require a trip up to the roof to examine the chimney closely. This trip requires the proper safety precautions for walking on the roof. Roofs can be steep and therefore are easy to fall off of. If a homeowner is unenthusiastic about traipsing around the roof and chimney, a chimney sweep or other chimney professional should be called out to take accurate measurements for copper chimney caps.

There are many sizes for copper chimney caps. Different sizes fit different types of chimneys and is important for them to fit properly. Proper fit ensures the right functions and uses for the chimney caps.

Anne Clarke writes numerous articles for Web sites on gardening, biking, fashion, and home decor. Her background also includes running, yoga, and tattoos. For more of her useful information on chimney tops visit Copper Chimney Caps.

Bathroom Remodeling Ideas For Remodeling

When you're planning any bathroom remodel, consider the costs of the bathroom remodeling versus the return on the actual investment. According to one of the popular remodeling magazines, the average bathroom remodel throughout the country cost around $16,000.

If you were to sell your house within a few years, you could recoup around $12,000 of your original investment. This would translate into a $4000 loss to your pocketbook eventually.

Using these numbers for your bathroom remodel investment, you would recoup around 75% of your original investment. If you know anything about investing money, this will not be a good rate of return and if you keep investing your money like this, you won't have any to invest, eventually.

Keep this in mind, if you're going to be selling the home within a few years. If the bathroom isn't in good shape and you're not planning on selling soon, you could remodel the bathroom and enjoy it for quite a few years. You wouldn't be looking at this as an investment but as maintenance costs.

If you need to remodel the bathroom, because it's getting a little run down and will create a problem when selling a home, I would suggest minor remodeling, if the toilet, fixtures and bathtub is in good condition, I would suggest changing the sink, cabinet, bathtub surround, flooring and some new paint.

If you're remodeling cost is now at $8,000, you would recoup at least $6,000 and would only lose $2000 on your original investment. Now this still doesn't make any sense, if you're still losing money, why would you even want to remodel the bathroom. Why not sell the home as it is and not lose any money? This is a tough decision to make and keep in mind, these are average costs.

You could recoup less or more than 75% of your bathroom investment costs.

Most real estate professionals will advise you to remodel the bathroom for two reasons, for one the house will sell for a few more dollars, and this will increase their sales commission. The second one is probably the most important for any one selling a home, the home could sell faster.

If you have the time and are in no hurry to sell the home, I would suggest trying to sell the home as is first and then sprucing it up, if you can't sell it within three months.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He has just finished a Home Buyers Guide to take some of the frustration out of home shopping.

If your looking for some more Remodeling Pictures or home building ideas.

Grout Used As Caulking

How Essential is Fire Safety Awareness

Thousands of fire incidents happen every year, especially in the workplace. Lives, money and businesses are lost; with lack of knowledge about preventive measures, it's the same thing as letting a thief inside. People always assume it can't happen to them, but there's a saying that it's better to be safe than sorry right? Why risk everything when you can prevent it to happen.

Here are few important safety and prevention tips everyone needs to know:

1. Proper training- Before we can use an extinguisher, we must have a proper training on how to distinguish and operate a fire extinguisher. First aid training is also a must.

2. Proper storage- Some chemicals are flammable, we must place it in a proper storage away from areas vulnerable to fire.

3. Proper garbage disposal- We never thought garbage can start a fire, but yes it can. We should be very cautious in throwing anything in our garbage can, such as used batteries or cigarettes, because it can start a fire. Garbage must be cleaned and disposed regularly and properly.

4. Malfunctioned electrical wiring- Instead of buying a substandard wiring, we must buy those that are highly recommended. We always think of buying the things where we can save money. This is very understandable. However, we shouldn't take the risk when it comes to things like this because if fire occurs due to faulty wirings then you will lose everything and all you could do is regret.

5. Fire exit- Every workplace must have a fire exit that every employee should know.

6. Fire alarm and fire hose must be properly installed.

7. Fire department's telephone numbers must always be posted near the telephone to easily contact them while the fire is just starting. This will help them respond on time before the fire gets bigger.

8. Inspection of wirings on regular basis is also important. By doing this we would be able to identify which wirings could possibly cause fire in the future.

9. Conduct safety measures- Discuss to everyone important safety measures that should be done when a particular situation arises; this is to prevent possible injuries or death to workers. Daily safety tool box talk can be also done by the workers to discuss and share solutions to a possible problem that might happen in their workplace.

10. Putting of signboards can also be done, like the signs that indicate escape routes and exits.

11. There should be a smoke detector in every workplace. Make sure you change the battery every six months. Install one battery operated and one powered by electricity so that when battery operated fails to work properly, there wouldn't be a problem since you have installed one that is powered by electricity, and vice versa. Test each installed smoke detector every month. Remember smoke detectors have saved lives!

12. Rechargeable lights are safer to use than candles during power outages. But if you don't have one, you can use candle with precautions. Candles shouldn't be left unattended and it should be kept away from anything that can easily start a fire such as curtains, papers, gas stoves, among others.

13. Never try to repair any electrical appliances if you don't have the right training, just so to save money for the repairs. Let the service technician do the job instead.

14. Always unplug any electrical appliances that are not in use. Not only does it consume electricity, but it can also be a cause of fire. Use extensions temporarily and not permanently. Make sure it is working properly and carries its proper load.

Near-miss incidents should always be recounted to the persons involved for them to acquire fire safety awareness and also to prevent those incidents from happening again.

Jo is a writer for 'Phoenix Safety Services Ltd' (http://www.phoenixsafety.co.uk), a well-known consultant in personalized Health and Safety Training that are given to various customers throughout UK and Europe. If your company requires you to attend a Fire Safety Awareness Training or would like to train you and your co-workers with the basic useful information and skills in knowing the fundamental dangers of fire and fire deterrence measures then have a look at Phoenix Safety Services Ltd.

House Drywall Application - Home Building Tips

Let's start with the basic eight-foot sheet of drywall. Most drywall contractors apply drywall horizontally however I have seen some contractors working with metal stud framing install 10 foot sheets of drywall vertically.

The reasons for installing the 10 foot sheets of drywall up and down or vertically in this situation are quite simple. There is no structural strength required in these walls because they are simply partitions dividing rooms and usually the drywall only needs to be finished up to 9 feet. This is the only time I have seen drywall ran vertically.

In a wood framed house the drywall actually adds a little sheer value to the home itself.

The manufacturer suggests installing eight-foot sheets of drywall horizontally. The horizontal application of drywall means installing the 4 foot side of the drywall up and down and the eight-foot side of the drywall side to side.

What is the reason for installing the 4 x 8 sheets horizontally?

When it comes to finishing the drywall the 4 foot seams that run up and down or vertical will not be as noticeable as a seam running up and down the entire wall. If you haven't read one of my last articles on eye level window setting then let me give you a brief eye level education.

A person 5'8" in height will be more apt to notice things between 4'6" off the ground and 6'6" off the ground. If we ran the drywall vertical there is a good chance the eyes would be able to pick up any finishing flaws in the drywall. Running the drywall horizontally will just put us a little out of range from the lower eye level of 4 foot six with our finish.

Another reason for installing the drywall horizontally is there is a good chance your eyes would be able to pick up four foot lines in the wall going from floor to ceiling quite easily. On older homes you will see lines in the ceilings about every 24 inches. This is because the plaster or drywall ceilings is starting to sag in between the ceiling joist.

These lines are difficult to do anything about once the drywall is finished. The only alternative you would have is to remove the ceiling and re-drywall and finish it.

Drywall ran vertically will tend to crack easier than staggered drywall ran horizontally. The four foot section of drywall is stronger than the 8 foot section. If you stagger your drywall breaks every four feet this will increase the strength of your wall as well.

Try not to break the drywall at any door openings. The door openings seem to crack easily from the corners working their way towards the ceiling. Let the drywall run over the doorway and then cut the doorway out leaving the rough door opening during wallboard installation.

If you have ever seen a house that was drywalled by a professional crew the waste is unbelievable. The reason for this is simply that the drywall contractor does not want to come back and patch cracks in the walls three or four years after he is done. It can be quite labor intensive installing scrap pieces of drywall versus using larger sheets to cover the same area.

Don't forget and always remember that. Horizontal installation of drywall is recommended by the manufacturer.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Paint Mistake On Wall Register

Painting Contractor Tips For a Clean Job

Interior and exterior both paintings require close monitoring for a clean job. Contractors provide great help to get the job done however, the issue is that you requirements may be miss-conceived by the contractors for that matter at every step of the painting process you have to work close to the contractors so that you can paint the house according to your specifications.

Before specifying the requirements consult the color scheme and the paint material to be used with the contractor. That help you to build a friendly relationship with contractor and they feel more motivated working on their own proposed solutions. Also involve the whole family in decide the color scheme and the texture of the paint so as to minimize the conflicts after the job.

First and the most important job is to review the initial estimate, as the contractors work according to the job and requirements specified in the initial estimate. Check for all the work that has to be done before painting e-g repairing cracks, leakage, broken nails, small holes and bores. You may get this work done by the painting contractors free of cost if you request them in initial estimate. These small jobs will make you pain job perfect. Painting the house without repairing these cracks and holes will affect the overall look and life of the paint. Working carefully on initial estimate will eliminate delays in the painting job. Make sure that the house was trimmed before the paint and all the dirty surfaces have been cleaned, it will help the paint to form a strong bond.

Once the work starts, monitor the crew staff closely because it would be difficult to fix the odd patches after the job. To get the job clean and exclusive, make sure that the crew staff is working with new equipment. Especially the rollers have to be in good working conditions. Paint the trim first, then ceiling and wall in the end. Starting with walls will waste the paints, and will also affect the looks of the paint negatively. Once the wall has been painted, the trim paint will appear on the wall paint, same is the case with ceiling.

Once the paint job is done; closely examine the edges of the walls and ceiling. As uneven and poorly painted edges affects the life of the paint badly. Since it is very difficult to deal with the plastic drop sheets, try to use cotton drop clothes.

When the job is finished, keep the contractor with you to examine the house. To ensure a safe and good looking paint job, several coasts are used to cover the surface. Any uneven coat or bleed through of the fresh paint should be fixed there and then. To inspect the paint properly have a look on the walls, ceilings and window frames from different angles and distance. This will give you the clear picture of the painting.

Painting contractors are professionals, they know the job better. All you have to do is to clearly communicate your requirements and limitations. Any miss-conception about the job will result into a conflict at the end. To make the paint job good experience, try to work closely to the contractors.

Bio: View my profile for more articles about San Diego Painting Contractor

David Hay is the owner of 858 GRAPHICS in San Diego, California. 858 Graphics designs, builds, prints and installs almost any type of graphics. For all your Trade Show Display, Wall Murals, Outdoor Signs, Poster Printing and Vehicle Wraps needs, please visit http://www.858graphics.com

Your Tin Roof - Four Reasons to Preserve This Heritage

Tin roofs are a part of our rich American heritage. Whatever your style-- standing seam panels, embossed tin shingles, copper sheets--they represent a piece of our past.

A notable founding father, Thomas Jefferson, is credited with influencing the early use of metal roofing. Due to the durability of the metal, the increasing availability of metal due to the industrial revolution and improved transportation, metal roofs established a strong hold on the roofing trade. World War II, introduction of inexpensive asphalt-based shingles, and increasing manpower wages ended tin roofing's reign.

Today, owners of vintage homes face an expensive decision when the existing metal roof rusts and starts to leak-save or replace.

Most owners would prefer to save a visible tin roof. There are four excellent reasons:

1. An old "tin" roof is usually a strong statement that "This residence belongs to someone who wants to save our heritage." Beginning in the 1990s, the release of modern coating materials allow this possibility. These modern coatings do not flake, last over ten years, and weatherproof against leaks. Plus these coatings are available in most colors.

2. Almost without exception, owners of tin roofing enjoy the sound of rain drops striking the roof panels.

3. Vintage metal roof owners tend to be aware of the importance of conserving our earth's resources. Indeed, this awareness has caused a resurgence of metal roofing because metal roofs are maintainable, reducing unwanted landfill deposits of old asphalt shingles. Vintage tin roof owners contribute to this renewable spirit by keeping a maintainable structure.

4. Finally the expense of maintaining a 100 year old roof compares favorably to new asphalt shingles and modern metal panels.

For the above reasons, tin roof owners are seeking and finding solutions to weatherproof older panels, protect the old metal integrity and improve the appearance of the residence.

If any tin roof owner wants proof of the durability of his/her roof, inspect the underside of a tin panel. Most of these metal panels were installed over slats, so the underside of the panels is clearly visible.

It is likely that the original coating is still intact over the original metal sheet. If the coating on the outside of the sheet is maintained, then that metal roof will probably outlast the present tin roof owner....and his/her children.

http://www.roofmenders.com

Developing Wealth Building Habit

Difficulties with Building Contractors - Building Contractors

Sometimes as contractors we get in a hurry and we just want to finish the job. We told the homeowner we would be done in three months, at the same time the homeowner keeps adding new work to the list.

I ran into a problem like this on one job where the contractor was in a hurry to finish the flooring and chose to go right over the existing floor that was out of level. He told the homeowner he didn't have time to repair that section of the floor. He was installing half-inch plywood over 1 x 6 diagonal floor sheeting to strengthen up the floor.

This floor was going to require quite a bit of attention from the contractor and his crew. The homeowner should have hired another contractor to repair the floor while the original contractor finished the house remodel. When your contractor gives you that much grief about any work, you need to start thinking about hiring another contractor or at least finding one to complete the task your original contractor has no interest in.

I felt sorry for the homeowner because this was not what he wanted and he was upset with the contractor but the job was done. This is my warning to any contractor, handyman or home repair specialists. When installing a new plywood floor over an existing floor to strengthen it up, use some common sense and repair the floor correctly or don't do the job at all.

I wrote this article for contractors to have a little more sympathy for the homeowners you are working for because sometimes they can't see the whole picture like you can. I also wrote this article for homeowners to listen to your contractor carefully when he is explaining a potential problem that you can't visualize further down the road. Any contractor with over 15 years experience remodeling homes has a pretty good idea what's going to happen next.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Dutch Roof

Extend the Life of Your Patio With an Outdoor Heater

The concept is pretty cool. Provide your guests with an outdoor heat source that extends the comfort range of your patio or deck during cooler evening hours and give you the use of your outdoor living spaces well into the fall and even winter if you live in a mild climate area.

These outdoor patio heaters are large, usually over 6 feet tall, and need a heat source such as propane. The best ones provide even heating a full 360 degrees around it so guests can be gathered in many groups around the unit and still be warm.

I wouldn't say they're incredibly stylish, although if you have metal decor like a hanging star or garland or perhaps metal wall sconces then the patio heater will at least look like it belongs. But how can you argue with a 6 foot cylinder pumping out 40,000 BTU's?

They cost about $250 or so, depending on which store you buy it in and which sales you capture. They are obviously more popular during the winter months and are nearly impossible to find in a retail store during the summer unless you catch an inventory clearance event. Our best advice is to buy one in late winter or early spring when they'll probably be on sale and then use it the following fall.

When you're shopping for a patio heater you need to consider these things:

1. the size of your patio or deck
2. how much space you actually need to heat
3. if you want a large fixed heater or a portable one
4. if you care about the fuel source, such as propane, electric, or natural gas
5. how you'll protect it when not in use.

The issue of protection is often easily solved with a patio heater cover. In fact many of them come with a free cover as incentive to get you to buy.

For more information on propane patio heaters and electric patio heaters please visit our website.

Floor Insulation Netting

How to Create the Perfect Patio Experience

By taking time to plan and design your patio, you can create an area where all the different features combine to produce a unique space that possesses character, comfort and charm. In effect, transforming a popular garden feature into an outside room.

To create the perfect patio for your garden, consider the size and position of the patio area carefully. Most people prefer the patio to be close to the house but you may wish to choose a location in a sunnier part of the garden or a position offering a better view.

By placing the patio near to trees and shrubbery, you create a naturally sheltered area similar to an arbour. But this type of location can bring problems. Firstly excavating the footings for the patio may cause damage to the roots of the trees and shrubs that were the chief attraction of that particular location. Close proximity to trees and shrubs will almost definitely result in the unsightly problem of leaf mould forming on the patio creating a slippery and hazardous surface.

For a patio that complements the house and garden, proportions are all-important. When deciding on the size of the patio, you must also think practically about how it will be used. If you want to put a table and chairs on it, you will probably need at least 3m x 3m but to accommodate sunloungers and possibly barbeques a larger space may be required. So it's worthwhile deciding on the type of patio furniture you will be using at this early stage.

Shape is another important factor in your patio planning. Don't be constrained by the traditional rectangular template - a curved patio is often more space efficient and can blend more harmoniously with the rest of the garden. Experiment with shapes and geometric patterns to highlight garden features or mirror flowerbeds. Mark out the patio area with a hosepipe or string line to help you visualise the space.

Once you have decided on the shape and size of your patio there is another important feature of the design to consider that many people overlook - colour. The variety of stone available to the patio builder is matched, if not surpassed, by the rich diversity of colours in which stone paving materials now come. A quick glance at any paving stone supplier's catalogue or website will vividly illustrate this. We will look at the colours available later, but at this stage it is a good idea to consider whether you want the colour of the patio to complement or contrast with the colour of the walls of your house.

Then there are the questions of patterned or plain and mix or match? Are you going to use stone of the same colour or do want to create a pattern on the patio surface?

Matching different materials is yet another option worth considering. A patio constructed of two different types of stone can be very effective, as can the inclusion of an area of decorative gravel in the design. But if the mix and match approach appeals to you take care, for not all materials will work well together.

As with so much connected with design, personal taste plays a significant and overriding role. Nevertheless, it is a generally accepted rule that natural stone does not work well with reconstructed materials.

The patio's perimeter also offers the opportunity for other design elements that can enhance its overall appearance. Firstly, you may want to build a low ornamental wall around the perimeter of your patio. Once again it is at the design stage where you should be looking into the height of the wall, the type and colour of the brick you are going to use and whether the top of the wall will be finished with coping or incorporate areas for planting.

Another option worth considering is having contrasting edging at the patio's perimeter, which can be in terms of both colour and material. A patio constructed of slabs can be given an elegant block edging, providing a simple but effective counterpoint to the main patio area.

Whatever design you are looking for, it is advisable to produce scale drawings to visualise the finished patio. Scale drawings can also assist in calculating the quantity of materials needed.

Patio slabs

Stone slabs or flags come in many shapes, sizes and colours. The main types of stone are natural stone and reconstructed stone. Natural stone is what its name implies and is the more expensive of the two; but natural stone slabs can vary in size and thickness and consequently will require a higher degree of expertise to lay.

Reconstructed stone slabs - sometimes described as reconstituted or artificial stone - are concrete units where a specific concrete mix has been designed to resemble natural stone. A wide range of natural stones can be imitated including Bath stone, Portland stone, Stainton stone and red terracotta.

A word of caution on reconstructed stone slabs. Although they are the less expensive option, the quality can vary greatly and the cheapest stone slab often bears little resemblance to the natural stone it is trying to imitate. So it's advisable to look around to find the best supplier.

Traditionally the most popular stone for building patios has been sandstone, as it comes in a wide range of attractive colours and textures. But there are other interesting and decorative alternatives.

Travertine is a hardwearing stone common to southern Europe. The largest building in the world constructed predominently of travertine is the Colosseum in Rome. A noticable feature of travertine stone is its naturally pitted surface that is excellent for simple, rustic designs. But it's the colours of travertine stone that make it so attractive to patio builders. In addition to grey, beige and white there are rich browns, reds and golds that are ideal for creating a patio with a Mediterrannean appearance.

Another stone favoured by professional patio builders is granite. The reputation granite has for toughness and durability often overshadows its natural beauty. Natural granite slabs are usually dark and silver grey, or pink. But its beauty is heightened in the sun as it sparkles and glints providing a glamorous sophistication.

When looking at the variety of stone available you will soon discover that patio slabs can come with different finishes offering another dimension to patio design. These finishes are produced by specific operations: acid-etched, smooth or coarse ground, grit or sand-blasted, rubbed or polished, giving the stone a different appearance and character.

A riven surface refers to stone that has the appearance of having split away from the main rock mass resulting in a rough, textured appearance. Tumbled stone has a distressed look marked by rounded edges and a well-worn quality. Polished stone has a smooth surface imparting a refined elegance, while in stark contrast slabs that have been shot-blast have a coarse, roughened surface.

Block paving and setts?

Although the patio slab or flag is the most popular stone material for building patios other materials are available, namely block paving and setts.

Block paving comprises of rectangular shaped blocks similar to bricks. The most common size for block pavers is 200mm x 100mm with a depth of around between 50mm. They can either be made of concrete or clay and come in a wide selection of colours. Clay paving blocks are more expensive than the concrete variety but both can be tumbled or polished

Paving blocks are usually laid in one of three patterns: herringbone, stretcher bond and basketweave.

Whatever stone material you decide to use, accurate plans will help you estimate the quantity of materials needed and get quotes. Remember to check that there are no underground pipes and cables in the area. If the patio is to butt onto an exterior house wall, it must be below the damp proof course.

John Burry is the editor of http://www.lets-do-diy.com He has extensive experience writing for a broad spectrum of UK publications coveringindustries as diverse as health, automotive, beauty, new media and construction. Before taking up his current position he worked in PRwhere he was account manager for a number of blue chip clients. John has gained a reputation for detailedresearch and presenting information clearly and concisely.

Cracks And Gaps Equal Damage

Discussing the Construction Home Building Process

Construction home building is the "meat and potatoes" of erecting a home. There are several different stages that go into making one. Manufactured homes are made a lot quicker than custom homes, but they usually have cheaper materials and labor. The home plans that you choose will determine how long it takes to build your new building.

There are several different stages in constructing it from new home plans. First the ground has to be leveled. If the ground is not level, then the building will settle and the foundation will crack, or the building will sink into the ground. Then the base of the house has to be constructed.

This is usually pier and beam or a slab. Basic plumbing is added at this part of the building as well. Then they add some of the framework for the building. After the framework comes the walls and roof frame. The rest of the plumbing is added, and then the sheet rock and insulation.

They put the roof on, and then add the electrical work. The windows and doors are added, and then they put up the bricks or whatever will be the outside of the house. Once the outside is complete, then they move on to the inside of the house and add whatever is needed indoors. The last thing to be done is floors and painting, and then finally the yard. This process is used because it is the most efficient for following home floor plans.

Manufactured homes are made differently than custom homes. Construction home building for manufactured homes is usually accomplished all at once. If you are interested in buying one, then you look at the home floor plans that the company has available. Then it is possible to choose different features to customize the house. Paint colors and floor coverings are usually chosen at this time too.

The building company then finishes the house so the new owners can move in. There are many manufactured homes built in the ranch house plans style or in the Tudor house plans style. It is easy to build many of these kinds of houses. The home building industry has grown a lot in past years. This started in the 1950s and 1960s with the first manufactured homes. Now, most homes that are built are at least somewhat manufactured.

Construction home building has not changed much over the years. Home floor plans are built into 3-D homes. The main difference in new homes versus old seems to be the fact that manufactured homes are more popular now. While it is still possible to customize these homes, it is harder. However, the fact that the homes are cheaper keeps them popular.

Discover more information about construction home building from Mike Selvon portal, and get more insider small house plans tips